Vitamins in skincare
Vitamins are micronutrients that are needed in relatively small quantities for the normal functioning of the body. Among other things, they have a beneficial effect on photo- and chronologically aged skin.
They differ in solubility, so we distinguish between hydrophilic and lipophilic vitamins. Hydrophilic water-soluble vitamins include vitamin C and B vitamins, while fat-soluble lipophilic vitamins include vitamins A, D, E, and K.
They are also often found in the form of derivatives, which allows them better stability, stability and consequently efficiency.
Many vitamins show demonstrable cosmetic effects on the skin and are used as tested ingredients in cosmetic products.
The most common skin care vitamins are vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol) and vitamin B3 (nicotinamide). Vitamins, as cosmetically active ingredients, are especially popular in cosmetics for the care of mature skin, i.e. anti-ageing products and in sunscreen products. The most important place among them is occupied by vitamin E.
Vitamin C and vitamin E are best known for their antioxidant properties, they have the ability to neutralise free radicals. Vitamin C also promotes the formation of collagen, which means that it is a very valuable ingredient in rejuvenating cosmetics. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) improves the barrier function of the skin, has a photoprotective effect and is used to lighten the skin. It also stimulates collagen production. Retinoids (vitamin A) are used for sun-damaged skin. They help to increase collagen production and consequently reduce wrinkles.
Vitamins A, C and E are welcome in anti-ageing products, as they slow down the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin and help prevent the formation of wrinkles. Niacinamide, on the other hand, is an important vitamin that strengthens the skin barrier and helps with age-related pigmentation.
Let me introduce each of the vitamins in a little more detail.
Vitamin E comprises a family of eight natural forms, which are classified into two main groups – tocopherols and tocotrienols. All forms are lipophilic. Alpha-tocopherol, which is also the most biologically active form of vitamin E, predominates in the body.
Vitamin E is formed by biosynthesis in plants, especially in natural oils. Natural alpha-tocopherol is therefore obtained by isolation from natural oils. Pomegranate oil contains the most vitamin E, as well as a high content of vitamin E in sea buckthorn oil. Both extremely healing oils are also represented in our products.
Vitamin E is the main lipophilic antioxidant in the skin and is found in all its layers. Vitamin E molecules there prevent the oxidation of membrane lipids. Vitamin E also reduces skin damage due to ultraviolet radiation, smoothes the skin surface, increases the moisture of the stratum corneum, inhibits inflammation, promotes cell renewal and accelerates wound healing.
Vitamin E is present in Mayarula products in all products with a lipophilic component.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) acts as an antioxidant in the body and is also involved in collagen synthesis. It is a water-soluble antioxidant that is in the skin both inside and outside the cells. It works in synergy with lipophilic alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E), which is anchored in the lipid bilayers of cells and prevents the oxidation of membrane lipids. When alpha-tocopherol loses its antioxidant capacity, it is restored in the presence of ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid, which is applied to the skin, stimulates the synthesis of collagen, which is a major component of connective tissue and ceramides, which are important components of the lipid barrier. Due to its anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, dermatologists also use it in the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.
Ascorbic acid is chemically unstable. When exposed to air or light, it becomes inactive. Due to poor stability, we mainly use its more stable semi-synthetic derivatives, such as e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, which is soluble in lipids and penetrates deeper into the stratum corneum, where lipases break it down into physiologically active ascorbic acid.
Ascorbic acid and its derivatives express an antioxidant effect on the skin and protect it from damage by ultraviolet radiation. In this case, the addition of alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) is also advised, as this combination has synergistic antioxidant effects. Higher concentrations have beneficial effects on acne-prone skin, but they also express a lightening effect, as they inhibit melanin synthesis.
Nicotinamide oz. Vitamin B3 is also classified in the group of skin lightening agents. With ageing, pigmented irregularities on the skin become more common, which is associated with photoageing of the skin or. adverse effects of excessive sun exposure. As a result, there has been a sharp increase in demand for skin lightening cosmetics in recent years.
Vitamin B3 reduces pigment spots as well as fine lines, improves the surface structure of mature skin, and increases skin elasticity. It also stimulates collagen production, so the use of this vitamin in products for mature skin, as well as the natural rejuvenating cosmetic line Mayarula, makes even more sense.
Nicotinamide is the main vitamin in Floral Moisturising Serum.
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A and are classified as a group of agents that promote the formation of connective tissue. Retinoids include many different compounds. Retinol and retinyl esters (retinyl palmitate) are most commonly used in cosmetics.
Retinoids are lipophilic compounds that easily penetrate the epidermis. They prevent the breakdown of collagen and promote its synthesis. The use of retinol on the skin increases the thickness of the epidermis and the formation of collagen. It is used to reduce facial wrinkles and to improve skin elasticity and maintain a youthful appearance, so retinol cosmetics are suitable for the care of dry and mature skin. Retinol is very unstable and loses biological activity when exposed to UV light and oxygen. Retinyl esters are more stable, so they are found more often in cosmetic products.
In the cosmetic line Mayarula is found in the Vitamin Oil Serum, where vitamins A and E provide antioxidant care for mature skin, improve skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles.
The serum deeply nourishes and nourishes the skin throughout the year. It is intended for intensive night care and skin regeneration. It is a great oil for evening pampering, which I recommend applying to moist skin. The feeling after application is soft, silky and nourishing, and the skin is ready for a new day in the morning.
To conclude, I would say that all the mentioned vitamins are permissible for use in natural cosmetics, although some are obtained synthetically and do not grow in nature. Vitamin C, for example, is present in nature and is therefore natural, but it is obtained as a cosmetic in the laboratory. Natural and synthetic work the same on the skin and decompose in the same way in nature, as they have the same formula. Why add it at all? Because vitamin C is the skin’s own ingredient, it is in the skin, in the cells and outside them, where it acts in synergy with lipophilic alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) and acts as an antioxidant, and also participates in collagen synthesis. However, because our own antioxidant systems can also be “consumed”, it is a popular ingredient in anti-ageing cosmetics.
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